Paper cuts without the ouch


The Saatchi Gallery really is such a dream. Not only is it a rehydrating space of tranquil refuge during this tasty English summer we’re having but it’s also currently home to the diverse and inspirational PAPER exhibition.  Paper, as the now somewhat historical means of transmitting information [hello internet], is redefined or emphasised through its essential physicality in this exhibition. The premise involves the moribund state of paper’s meaning today and the collective artists translate this message through various approaches to structure, collage and surface. The work of New York based, Okinawan artist Yuken Teruya really stood out for me as he visibly tackles the complexities of the hyper-consumption of our postmodern existence. While this is something of a fixation of mine, these renderings were a lighter and more jovial response to the matter. Intricate and meticulously conceived, the symbolic paper shopping bags are carved into their original source. Trees standing precariously in Givenchy, Christian Dior and McDonalds bags act as beautiful little light boxes, inviting the viewer in to a serene private space enclosed in an essentially wasteful environment. The exhibition catalogue sums him up perfectly:  “as someone who finds meaning among the morass of stuff we leave behind.”



The paper work of Daniel Kelly is more closely aligned with architectural forms and constructs of space. However, there is something in the informal, origami-like layering and also curling of edges which brought me back to something which may be becoming a bit of a theme on here. The edges and their folds seem to me to be echoed in the general format of a starched man’s shirt. A tempting comparison could be made to the roughness of finish of one my personal fav’s Craig Green’s AW13 collection. Paper’s sheer materiality is evident in both and the visual similarities are unbelievably striking. I seem to have some sort of sartorial bias towards the upper half of a man’s attire, but bottoms-I promise- I’ll get to you at some point.



Marcelo Jácome’s Planos-Pipas is a fluttering fancy of tissue paper, bamboo, fiberglass  and cotton thread. Dominating the almost aeronautical space, it resembles a mass of oblong and multi-shaped collars, suspended in a manner battling the 2D/3D conflict. Perusing the SS14 collections, I see these connections realised. Even if not wholly specific to these works and artists, paper referencing seems apparent every now and then. Although not the obvious reference or area of influence, there are gentle nods to this folded paper aesthetic in the collections of Damir Doma and Raf Simons. Paper tailoring is perhaps not the most innovative domain but origamic experiments could certainly create enormous scope for ingenious creativity. Maybe wrapping paper could be thrown into the mix: I quite fancy the idea of a shirt seemingly unwrapping at the seams, exploding out of your chest…




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